A Trek to Clifton's

Inspired by this recent post we had on L.A.'s dying cafeteria culture, Maria and I decided we should finally hit downtown's Clifton's Cafeteria this weekend.

I've been curious about the location -- also known as Clifton's Brookdale -- and its forest/national park theme for some time. We managed to find a metered parking spot on Hill (a parade had shut down Broadway, forcing more traffic than usual), within walking distance of the cafeteria (at the corner of 7th and Broadway).



Above, I grab a tray. Clifford Clinton founded Clifton's in 1931, when he moved to Los Angeles (having sold his interest in a San Francisco operation). According to the Clifton's site:

It did not take Clifford Clinton long to find a landlord willing to lease a distressed cafeteria location. Nor did it take long to use up the meager $2,000 capital saved for this new commitment. Of all those working by his side 14 hours a day those first six months, none contributed more than his wife, Nelda. Having sold his ownership interest in Clinton Cafeterias in San Francisco, and needing a new name for his Los Angeles cafeteria, he compounded the first half of CLIF-ford and the last half of Clin-TON to produce the name "Clifton's."

Customers became "guests" and none were ever turned away hungry, even though they had no money. During one 90-day period, 10,000 ate free before Clifford could open an emergency "Penny Cafeteria" a few blocks away to feed, for pennies, the two million "guests" who came during the next two years.

Rows of pie are the first thing you see in line...



... but I ended up picking up a beef enchilada, with rice, from the counter.



The second Clifton's, nicknamed "Brookdale," opened in 1935. It's the location that still exists today. According to the Brookdale page of the Cliftons site:

As a youth, Clifford spent his summers in the Santa Cruz mountains among the coastal redwoods, not far from the famous Brookdale Lodge. This mountain feeling was the theme Clifford wanted for his new location. Working with rock sculptor Francois Scotti, Clifford created a 20ft. waterfall cascading into a quiet stream that meanders through the dining room. Redwood trees were used to conceal steel columns and a renowned L.A. muralist, Einar Petersen, created a life size forest on canvas covering one wall. A Little Chapel perched high amongst the crags fulfilled Clifford's desire to feed the soul as well as the body of depression weary Angelinos

Above, a view of the dining room...



... and the moose head that peers down on diners.



Here's another view of the dining room, including the Little Chapel.



The third floor of the Brookdale, known as the "History Room." Dropping the Brookdale forest theme, the third floor boasts newspaper clippings and other articles from Clifton's past...



... including this sign. Wow -- 64 cents? Quite a long time ago.



The sign in Clifton's lobby.

Overall, the kitschy Clifton's experience lived up to expectations. The food? About as bland and unexciting as one might expect from a cafeteria -- but the Brookdale environment was worth checking out.

The nicest surprise came from the Clifton's bakery. We picked up a few cookies and a pineapple loaf on the way out; all three were pretty delicious.

As far as we know, Clifton's isn't in danger of closing. But it is part of a dying breed, as patrons of Pasadena's recently shuttered Beadle's Cafeteria know. As recently as 1997, Clifton's still operated two locations downtown and three in the suburbs. Now, that count is down to one -- Clifton's Brookdale.