Hungry for Phillippe
L.A. Times food critic S. Irene Virbila gets down and dirty in this week's review, taking a fresh look at the glory that is a French dip sandwich at Phillippe's the Original.
In a city that runs on fast food, Philippe's is an anomaly. Your food comes fast, but it's real. Put a Tommy's burger or a Pink's dog next to one of Philippe's finest and there's no contest. The French dip sandwich is sublimely basic and uncomplicated: slabs of well-roasted meat and a soft, tender bun that wicks up the decadent juices like blotter paper. Philippe's is not the kind of sandwich to eat on the run: It demands the ceremony of sitting down at table with fellow Angelenos.
Phillippe's just celebrated its 95th anniversary -- as if you already didn't have a reason to run down there Friday (sorry, closed on Thanksgiving and Christmas-- that's it) for a sandwich. Dammit, I'm craving one now. Thanks, S. Irene (or as Maria and I -- who've never met the critic -- call her, "Sirene").
No comments:
Post a Comment