Plate Lunch Wars

Much to my delight, Hawaiian-style plate lunch joints seem to be popping up everywhere these days. After moving back to the mainland for college, I used to long for spam musubi and chicken katsu... now there's no escaping it.

L&L Drive-Inn is the real deal, of course, a Hawaii-based chain that went national but still offers up a truly "local" experience.

But suddenly, another soon-to-be-ubiquitous chain has popped up, Ono Hawaiian BBQ, with locations in Westwood, Hollywood (across from the used-to-be-24-hours-Home-Depot) and elsewhere.

Ono isn't based in Hawaii -- actually, it doesn't even have stores in Hawaii -- so it loses some authenticity points. But I decided to give it a try.

Pros: They call their chicken katsu "chicken katsu." Unlike L&L, which dumbed it down for mainland audiences, and renamed it "chicken cutlet." Menu is also wider than L&L's mainland offerings.

Cons: Any self-respecting Hawaiian joint offers Aloha Shoyu -- but Ono only serves Kikkoman soy sauce. Also, they lose more points for calling their saimin "noodle soup."

In the end, advantage L&L. Not only does L&L also serve breakfast, but it always has Honolulu newspapers on hand to peruse while waiting for your grinds.

Still, Ono makes a decent Spam Musubi (below).