Rate-A-Restaurant, #82 in a series

Restaurant: Earl's Rib Palace

Location: 4414 W. Reno (Oklahoma City)

Type of restaurant: Barbecue

We stipulated: Many of you know that my dad started working at the FAA a few years ago, relocating my parents to Oklahoma City in the process. Since then, we've visited several times... and each time get depressed by the utter lack of real restaurants there. Chains as far as the eye can see (the usual suspects, like Chilis, and regional entries like Texas Road House). For his birthday, my dad suggested Earl's -- a homegrown OKC spot that specializes in BBQ. We were more than happy to head to this local spot.

They stipulated: That you buy into the legend of "Earl," supposedly a former personal chef of Elvis' who died in 1978. The truth? There is no "Earl."

What we ordered: pulled pork dinner, with Okie Toast and sides of baked beans and cole slaw (Mike); rib dinner with Okie toast and sides of fried okra and curly fries. (Both $7.95)

High point: The baked beans were perfectly spicy, while the ribs were melt-off-the-bones good.

Low point: The pulled pork was disappointing bland, especially because the pulled pork sandwich I had previously tried at Earl's had plenty of flavor.

Overall impression: A good value for all of the food -- and a nice change from the chains that dominate Oklahoma City. The town is still a barren restaurant wasteland, but at least they have Earl's -- which makes you appreciate with the spot even more.

Chance we will go back: Next time we're in Oklahoma City.

For a complete archive of our Rate-A-Restaurant reviews, check out our newly revised companion ratearestaurant.blogspot.com website.