Rate-A-Restaurant, #87 in a series

Restaurant: Vinoteca Farfalla

Location: 1968 Hillhurst Ave. (Los Feliz)

Type of restaurant: Wine Bar, with Italian and Brazilian small dishes

We stipulated: After enjoying several wine bars (enotecas) in Italy -- particularly Florence -- during our 2003 trip, we wondered why the concept hadn't caught on in Los Angeles. The whole idea of mingling in a small, cozy space with a glass of wine and some meats and cheeses -- we were sold. So when we spotted Vinoteca Farfalla while on Hillhurst last month, we got excited.

They stipulated: The spot wasn't busy when we arrived at 5 p.m. on a pre-holiday afternoon. Which meant the waiter was anxious to spend time telling us about the wines and help guide us through our selection. And the best part: He didn't skimp. These were hefty glasses.

High point: Just the existence of Vinoteca Farfalla is exciting enough. We're a little bummed that it moved into our old neighborhood after we moved, but I guess that's beside the point. Vinoteca Farfalla's the perfect spot to meet a group of people in the evening -- particularly on a slightly chilly day -- and the staff is overly friendly.

Low point: Too bad they didn't bother to ask why we were waiting outside the door for at least 15 minutes. The "closed" sign was still on the door, even though we learned later that they were actually open -- they just hadn't bothered to switch the sign.

Overall impression: We're not wine snobs, so I couldn't tell you how Vinoteca Farfalla's selection stacks up. But to a layman, it seemed pretty impressive. And more importantly to us, the small spot is a pretty close facsimile of what it's like to stumble across a neighborhood wine bar in Europe.

It's a part of a wider trend, as the L.A. Times reported last week, as the wine bar phenomenon has finally reached our city:

Whether slick or funky, with elaborate menus or just a few snacks, the new wine bars are eminently welcoming and laid-back. They're like coffeehouses for the enologically curious, or those who just like a glass of something interesting and a tasty bite. Arrive early, they're quiet and soothing; come late and they're hopping.

Chance we will go back: Yes -- and who knows, maybe we'll try more food beyond the simple meat and cheese platter next time (Vinoteca is next door to a co-owned Brazilian restaurant).

(Photo: Los Angeles Times)