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Saturday, July 1, 2006

Rate-A-Restaurant, #105 in a series



Restaurant: Beacon

Location: 3280 Helms Ave, (Culver City)

Type of restaurant: Asian fusion

Inside Beacon

We stipulated: Meeting some network execs for lunch, it was time to try something new. Joe suggested Beacon -- and I'm always game for "Asian fusion" -- which to me means there might be sushi involved at some point.

They stipulated: Beacon is located in the Helms Bakery complex -- once home to the Helms Bakery, natch, and now a furniture mecca. Parking can be impossible during the day; I had to drive around several times.

What we ordered: Appetizers: "Black" Edamame ($2.95); Crispy Vegetable Springrolls ($3.95); Chicken Wings with Soy-Ginger Glaze ($4.75); my main course: Beacon Bento Box (Miso soup, Kazuto's sashimi, Vegetable crudite with sumiso sauce, Grilled Thai marinated chicken Miso marinated black cod, Hijiki Onigiri; $14.95).

High point: Ahh, that black cod. Like butter. A sweet, carmalized, smooth texture on the cod -- best I've had in years. Space is also pleasant, once you look past the parking problems.

Low point: The appetizers weren't anything special. (Except the black edamame, which was good -- even though we kept wondering what made them "black.")

Overall impression: Mmm, black cod. Chef Kazuto Matsusaka, who the L.A Times last year called "one of California's most influential chefs," has concocted a winner.

Chance we will go back: Quite possibly -- Culver City's new array of options is making the town worth the drive.

For our complete list of Rate-A-Restaurant reviews, click here.

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