Rate-A-Restaurant, #32 in a series

Restaurant: Buddha's Belly

Location: 7475 Beverly Blvd. (corner of Beverly Blvd. and Gardner between Fairfax and La Brea)

Type of restaurant: Pan-Asian

They stipulated: No reservations for parties under 6. In other words, if it's a weekend, you're going to be waiting. For a while. A waiter will come by and take your drink order as you stand outside. And stand some more.

What we ordered: Crispy soft-shell crab (appetizer), Japanese-Style Baked Alaskan Black Cod, Thai Green Curry Chicken and Jasmine Rice

High point: Los Angeles magazine lists Buddha's Belly as one of the city's new restaurant bargains, and we have to agree. Although, at $15, the Black Cod is pushing it -- but it was so soft, moist and flaky, hell, it was worth the price.

Low point: Honestly, the wait. And the tables are really smashed together, in order to seat as many people as possible.

Overall impression: Right-sized portions, interesting fusion entrees and decent prices make this a nice fall-back restaurant if you can't figure out where to eat. And the atmosphere is alive without being too noisy. We could easily eavesdrop on the gay couple next to us planning a Hawaiian wedding.

Chance we will go back: This is a pretty diverse and exciting menu, so I'm sure we'll return to try something different. (Or hell, to get the Black Cod again.) Don't expect to see us on a Saturday night, however.

For all of our Rate-A-Restaurant reviews, check out our companion blog site, www.ratearestaurant.blogspot.com.