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Tuesday, December 6, 2005

L.A.'s Top New Eats



Citysearch has compiled its list of the top ten new restaurants in Los Angeles. Leading the list: Ortolan, the French eatery located in the spot formerly home to Linq (at 3rd St. and Kings Road).

From their review:

Unrecognizable as Linq, this foodie mecca successfully blends progressive and elegant design concepts. A dark-blue Moorish patio gives way to the cream-colored dining room, with low-hanging ornate chandeliers. In the back, a greenhouse lounge features rows of potted herbs on walls and a roaring fireplace. Waiters in pressed white shirts and teal ties provide professional service; sommelier recommendations are spot on.

Chistophe Eme melds signature dishes from his days at L'Orangerie and a penchant for innovation, creating L.A.'s best French restaurant since the early days of Bastide. In between, the cuisine is superb, starting with rabbit meatballs, bursting with flavor, plated with spicy crawfish, luscious rosemary gnocci, unified by creamy burrata. Crispy langoustines cocoon inside an ultrathin egg roll-mimicking crust, crunching beautifully. Another signature dish, the duo of squab entree, is superbly tender, and the expertly roasted skin-on John Dory tans on a hot river stone. Desserts are universally phenomenal.

Citysearch's other top new joints, from No. 2 to No. 10: Providence (another new French restaurant, in the old Patina spot); Hungry Cat (seafood/oyster bar at Sunset and Vine); Pecorino (Central Italian fare, on San Vicente); Harbor Drive (California cuisine in Redondo Beach); and Triumphal Palace (Cantonese dim sum and more, in Alhambra).

Also: Dakota (modern steak house at Hollywood's Roosevelt Hotel); Wilshire (California cuisine in Santa Monica); Tower Bar (revamped lounge at the Sunset Tower Hotel -- formerly the Argyle); and Cucina Paradiso (Tuscan food in Palms).

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